The Rocket R Cinquantotto is the successor to the R58 dual boiler espresso machine. We take a closer look at the Rocket Cinquantotto and examine the machine in the context of other espresso machines. For whom does it make sense to invest in a dual boiler? What is the added value of such an espresso machine and how does this reflect in the espresso cup.
An investment for life and plenty of material
The Rocket R Cinquantotto tips the scales at a full 29 kg and ranks among the heavyweights of home espresso machines. Plenty of stainless steel and two boilers as well as a depth of 46 cm, a width of 31 cm and a height of 42 cm all contribute to this. When measuring the width, Rocket does not account for the display mounted on the left side of the machine, which takes up a good 5 cm on its own. While the display can be unplugged, the aesthetics are definitely a significant improvement over the display look of the predecessor R58. And since it also includes some practical functions like temperature control and eco mode settings, it will usually remain attached to the machine. However, the long cable also allows the display to be hidden behind the machine.
The Rocket R Cinquantotto costs CHF 2990,- in Switzerland. In Europe, we've seen the machine for 2499 euros at, for example, Stoll Espresso. For the sake of completeness, it should be mentioned here that we ourselves also distribute the machine in Switzerland upon request. However, we conduct our test reports as a coffee school and academy and feel free to point out both the weaknesses and strengths of each machine. In Switzerland, the Rocket R Cinquantotto is available from us as well as, for example, from Philippe at the Home Barista Shop in Aarau, from Flo at the Kaffeewerkstatt in Zurich, or from Lukas in Märstetten at Kaffee-Erlebnis.ch
The Rocket Cinquantotto with rotary pump can be connected to mains water and also operated with a tank. The respective connections are already in place and can be used without any issues, and an appropriate flex hose is included in the delivery.
The dual boiler principle using the Rocket R Cinquantotto as an example
Dual boiler espresso machines are their own machine category. They are distinguished in particular from heat exchanger machines and single boiler machines by an additional boiler, as the name suggests. A typically smaller boiler is reserved for precisely targeting the temperature of around 93 degrees Celsius for brewing water. Another larger boiler provides the steam pressure needed for milk frothing. The temperature of the larger boiler reaches between 120 and 130 degrees Celsius.
The brew boiler of the Rocket R Cinquantotto holds 0.58 l and the steam boiler holds 1.75 l. In the case of the R Cinquantotto, both kettles are made of copper. The great advantage of a dual boiler is the ability to control the boiler temperatures independently of each other. This allows you to achieve the perfect brew temperature without making compromises on steam power.
For this reason, dual boiler espresso machines were in principle the best espresso machines for precision espresso preparation for many years. In the field of commercial machines, Dalla Corte took this technology to the extreme in 2001 with the multiboiler approach. A separate boiler was installed above each group with portafilter attachment, which could be individually regulated in temperature.
The Rocket R Cinquantotto does a good job with individual temperature adjustment and implementation across the groups. However, one drawback is that any possible offset cannot be adjusted.
But what about temperature consistency and is the Cinquantotto also a machine with which you can quickly try different temperatures and brew different espressos with precision?
6 espresso shots with the Rocket R Cinquantotto in succession.
Advantages and disadvantages of inertia – temperature consistency
Let me say upfront: we enjoyed outstanding espressos. The Rocket R Cinquantotto can be adjusted to the point and then performs temperature perfectly. The average ideal espresso brewing temperature is around 92–94 degrees Celsius, and our model reached exactly that. The machine was not only very precise in terms of shots, but over five consecutive shots it only increased by a total of 1.2 degrees. That's a top value and really allows many good shots in succession, even when there's a rush of guests or in a small gastronomic setting.
However, the espresso machine is very sluggish. This is something it shares with all espresso machines with a Faema E61 brew group and the principle of a relatively large boiler. It takes 25 minutes before the first shot to get everything fully heated. This sluggishness shows in the consistency from shot to shot. If we compare the Rocket R Cinquantotto with a budget thermoblock espresso machine, the latter looks like an erratic heart monitor. The dual boiler, on the other hand, is a gentle line at temperature.
Temperature curves of Sage Barista Touch with cold portafilter on low, Prima by Victoria Arduino, and Cinquantotto.
However, the sluggishness has another disadvantage. While the Cinquantotto can be easily adjusted in temperature via the display, implementing the new target takes time. A correction upward is achieved relatively quickly with one or two idle shots, but a downward correction requires significantly more patience.
Here the Rocket R Cinquantotto illustrates the limitations of the classic dual boiler. The immense amount of heated material is not flexible and cannot be ready at a different temperature from shot to shot. The quality lies in its stability and consistency. For this reason, a dual boiler can reach different temperature ranges. As a machine for playing, experimenting, and as a partner alongside a single dosing grinder with the goal of experimenting and trying different recipes and temperatures, the Rocket R Cinquantotto can only be recommended to a limited extent.
The independence of the flexible steam boiler and latte art
My barista colleague Michel Aeschbacher raves in our detailed video about the Cinquantotto's steam performance. Plenty of power is delivered into the pitcher and yet the milk doesn't heat up too quickly. This makes frothing for latte art and preparing cappuccino and latte macchiato a joy. The slower heating allows for prolonged frothing in the rolling phase and thus the creation of a delicate milk foam.
If the pressure is too high or too low, adjustment can be made through individual control of the steam boiler. It's somewhat a shame that at 126 degrees Celsius, that's where it stops. This is less of a shame for home use than for the small gastronomic setting mentioned earlier.
A bit more pressure there would equate to more speed. This speeds up preparation and gets the drink to the guest faster. The milk performance of the Rocket R Cinquantotto is therefore only conditionally recommended for gastronomy. Here you clearly notice: machines like the GS3 from La Marzocco or the Victoria Arduino Prima are much better suited with their commercial-grade components.
High power consumption but good eco mode alternative
In the first hour with five espresso shots, the Cinquantotto consumes 0.38kW/h. That's considerable. An Ascaso Steel Duo PID consumes just 0.09 kW/h, a quarter of that. After 90 minutes without use, the Cinquantotto automatically switches to eco mode and shuts down.
A test on the topic of power consumption and eco mode, appearing soon, will provide the tip to turn off a machine directly after a shot if no espresso is expected to be brewed for the next two hours. The Rocket R Cinquantotto allows for additional options through control via the display. For example, two time windows per day can be programmed for when the machine should turn on and off again. Very practical and especially purposeful for an espresso machine that takes a good 25 minutes to heat up. This way it's already ready when the morning espresso is to be brewed.
Conclusion and for whom the Rocket R Cinquantotto is the right machine
An investment in the Cinquantotto is an investment made for the long haul that will pay for itself over many years. Manufacturer Rocket builds solid machines that last half a lifetime. Some other manufacturers, who build cheaper machines with comparable espresso performance, still need to prove this.
Nevertheless, the question remains of what justifies an investment in a Cinquantotto, especially when looking only at your own home with Mozzafiato and Appartamento.
The temperature consistency of the Appartamento is nearly equivalent. The Mozzafiato is equally in use and can still be controlled per PID in the temperature range, although the heating time in our test was longer. The significant difference of the Cinquantotto's temperature individuality really comes into play when temperature is to be used for brewing. However, here the sluggishness is an obstacle, even if the display hints at flexibility. In practice, the temperature will likely be slightly adjusted for one bag of espresso, and a better result in the cup can be achieved this way. But we're getting into levels of sensory assessment capability that we as coffee sensory professionals rarely venture into in everyday life.
From my perspective, the R Cinquantotto is rather not suitable for baristas who simultaneously have different espressos on the table and want to serve one profile to one guest and another to another. There are significantly better espresso machines for this purpose, like the Decent Espresso, which in addition to temperature adjustment also enables different pressure and flow profiles.
