How much coffee does Nicaragua export? What are the preferred varieties and what does a typical cup of Nicaraguan coffee taste like? What role does coffee play in society and in the economy, and what does its future look like? Exciting questions with interesting, thought-provoking answers. And then there's the DO Dipilto. A novelty in the Latin American country, possibly even a groundbreaking one. Let's dive together into the exciting coffee world of Nicaragua.
Table of Contents
- Coffee in Nicaragua today
- Taste, volume, quality
- Challenges, facts & figures
- Coffee in Nicaragua yesterday
Coffee, an important economic sector?
The Central American country with its capital Managua borders Costa Rica to the south and Honduras to the north. It is characterized by very diverse geography, from the Pacific and Caribbean seas, many different microclimates to a chain of active volcanoes.
Coffee cultivation is one of the most significant agricultural economic sectors and is a source of income and employment for many people. In Nicaragua, more than 330,000 people work with coffee, representing 15% of the labor market and 54% of the agricultural sector. Of these, 44,000 are coffee producers, of which 71% own an average farm size of between 1-14 hectares.
The remoteness of many small farms, the struggle with coffee rust, natural disasters such as Hurricane Mitch, as well as the civil war and the dismantling of large farms in the 1980s are factors why the potential as a major coffee nation is being developed only slowly. And even today, politics frequently confronts coffee farmers with new challenges directly or indirectly. Political and economic unrest and insecurity have led to the Latin American country facing enormous emigration. This has resulted, among other things, in many farmers lacking essential workers for the harvest season. Further articles on this topic can be found, for example, here.
Many small farmers practice close-to-nature coffee cultivation, partly out of conviction and partly because they often have little money for pesticides. The share of organically certified coffee is around 10%.
Where does coffee grow in Nicaragua?
Nicaragua has a variety of soils that differ depending on the region. The soils in the mountainous regions are usually of volcanic origin and rich in organic matter. The very fertile soil is excellent for coffee cultivation. In the lowland regions, the soil is mostly sandy and is better suited for crops such as tobacco, sugarcane, and cotton—or Robusta.
Robusta - legally regulated cultivation
What can be grown where is legally regulated. For example, since 2006 there have been some farms in the Autonoma de la Costa Caribe Sur region that are officially allowed to grow Robusta, but in other regions this was prohibited until recently. From an economic standpoint, however, this cultivation had not yet been relevant. In 2016, the Association of Coffee Exporters (Excan) achieved a major success. Since then, the new legal reform has allowed the cultivation of Robusta in seven departments in the Pacific Region and in the two autonomous regions of the Atlantic coast. The resolution stipulates that Robusta must not be grown higher than 400 meters above sea level and must maintain a minimum distance of 30 km from the nearest Arabica plantation. Just a year later, Robusta was even incorporated into the Coffee Law. The reasons are again economic, because in addition to Canephora producing a higher yield per plant, it also grows in low areas and is resistant to many diseases, such as the feared coffee rust.
The economically relevant cultivation regions for Arabica are Nueva Segovia, Matagalpa, Estelí, and Jinotega. Nicaragua's potential to further increase the quantity and quality of coffee cultivation is being developed only slowly for various reasons. However, many forward-thinking, revolutionary, and pioneering coffee farmers ensure that Nicaragua is increasingly earning a firm place on the specialty map.
https://www.cafeimports.com/europe/nicaragua
What is the classification system?
Arabica green coffee is classified in Nicaragua according to altitude in meters. It is assumed that the higher the coffee is grown, the better its flavor profile. The focus is especially on acidity, which can develop better at higher elevations. For Robusta, there is no specific green coffee classification.
· SHG (strictly high grown) for cultivation at 1200 meters altitude and above
· HG (high grown) for cultivation between 900-1200 meters altitude
· CS for cultivation between 500-900 meters altitude
This type of classification plays a larger role in the evaluation of conventionally traded coffees. In the specialty coffee sector, Nicaragua follows the grading system of the CQI and the Specialty Coffee Association.
Nicaragua has also had a tradition for many years as a participating country in the Cup of Excellence competition.
What does coffee from Nicaragua taste like?
The dominant Arabica variety in Nicaragua is Caturra, at 72% of the total Arabica cultivation area. Other common varieties are Bourbon, Catuai, Catimor, Paca, Maracaturra, Maragogype, Pacamara, which are classically processed by washing. Especially in Nueva Segovia, where our farm Santa Rita is located, there are some experimentally-minded producers who play with other varieties and post-harvest processes. The characteristic flavor characteristics of these washed-processed varieties are notes of milk chocolate, caramel, honey, and nuts with medium acidity and medium body.
Through improved selection, Robusta has gained much in potential. Some Fine Robustas offer notes of chocolate, fruits, and spices as well as clean flavor notes with pleasant acidity and a round body. Robusta farmers also test various post-harvest processes, such as honey.
Defining coffee farms for Nicaragua: a selection
Finca Santa Rita - our own coffee farm
Since 2017, we as Kaffeemacher GmbH have been the owners of the small coffee farm Santa Rita in Tablazon, Dipilto, about 30 km from Ocotal in the province of Nueva Segovia.
We became co-owners of Santa Rita at the invitation of our friend and partner, Roberto Castellanos, co-owner of Finca Santa Rita. The original impetus was exchange, financial stabilization, and further development of a small model farm.
In the meantime, Roberto has taken over the management of the family farm and asked us to take over Santa Rita completely and continue running it. We also continue to buy coffee from Roberto, and with "Las Nubes" he is our neighbor in Dipilto Viejo.
Our goal is to work as ecologically as possible and create a healthy cycle on the farm, with an intact flora and fauna system. A healthy cycle naturally also includes employees, for whom we create secure jobs, appropriate wages, good sanitary conditions, access to education, and insurance.
We understand Santa Rita as both a platform and a laboratory. As a platform, Santa Rita serves to invite other producers to exchange with scientists and to pass on what we've learned. As a laboratory farm, we conduct experiments with different varieties and post-harvest processes in order, on the one hand, to generate a stable harvest yield, and on the other hand, to determine what flavors we can create on a small farm with targeted fermentations. You can find the coffees in our shop, in season and fresh from harvest.
Finca El Árbol - model farm of our partners
Claudia Lovo and Saša Šestić purchased Finca El Árbol together with other supporters. The Australian is the founder of Ona Coffee and Project Origin and Australian Barista Champion as well as World Barista Champion. Since 2019, Claudia's partner Tim Willem has dedicated himself to constantly optimizing quality, with a focus on the post-harvest process. The farm is managed according to organic-regenerative principles and is home to 14 people who cultivate and nurture the created mini-ecosystem. Coffee, nature, and people should be able to live in harmony—Claudia and Tim pass this vision on to their employees and visitors alike. The two are our on-site partners, involved as representatives and trustees, and oversee Santa Rita in coordination with us.
Claudia and Tim are also the ones who conduct the annual Coffee Farm Training on the partner farm El Árbol.
Bridazul - Born from challenges
Coffee drying at Bridazul
"We are not a drymill nor an export company. We are the link between people with the same mindset."
Tim Willem, Finca El Árbol and Bridazul
In the 2018/2019 harvest season, Claudia and Tim began experimentally drying coffee on their own farm. That same year, the country experienced major political instability with the catastrophic result for coffee farmers of a credit freeze by the banks. Several producers asked Claudia and Tim for help, hoping that through the good networking of the two they could get a higher price for their green coffees—otherwise the farmers might have lost their farms. Tim and Claudia quickly called several friends and asked if they were interested in buying coffee from Nicaragua. As a result, they were able to sell almost an entire container. Today they are lessees of a dry mill and sell between five and six containers of green coffee from around 45 producers. With Bridazul, they have also created a place where nature, people, and animals are treated with respect.
Mierisch Family
"The Mierisch Family were the first to make things better and put Nicaragua on the specialty radar."
Tim Willem, Finca El Árbol and Bridazul
The undisputed and highly respected star producer is the Mierisch Family. German immigrant Bruno Mierisch Boettiger planted the first coffee plant on his farm "Las Lajas" in 1908, laying the foundation for the most successful and multiple award-winning Mierisch farms, which now includes 14 farms, three of them in Rio Bonito, Honduras. This makes them one of the largest producers in the country, as a substantial 97% of the total 45 thousand producers own less than 14 hectares or 20 Manzanas of coffee cultivation area.
Valladárez Family
The story of Luis Emilio Valladárez Zelaya begins in the 1960s in Dipilto, Nueva Segovia, when he inherited a small plot of land from his grandmother and planted coffee on it. Circumstances were challenging at first, so the valuable cargo had to be transported by horse to the nearest mill or to the next village. He planted varieties such as Maracaturra, Maragogype, Java, Villa Sarchí, and Caturra and named his small farm "Buenos Aires"—an award-winning farm that was chosen as the Cup of Excellence winner in 2015. His Maracaturras are considered by many to be the best in the country. Meanwhile, the Valladárez Family owns several farms, including the also award-winning Finca Miraflor, El Suyatal, Monte Líbano, and La Laguna.
El Avion
The farm of Mario José González Rodríguez is located at 1400-1800 meters above sea level and is the Cup of Excellence winner 2022. With 90.74 points, the naturally processed Red Catuai impresses the jury with stone fruit, plum, vanilla, and a clear acidity and very present sweetness. The 100 Manzanas-sized farm El Avión has been in the hands of the winner since 2012. He grows coffee on only 20 Manzanas, with the two varieties Red Catuai and Catimor.
The Chianti of Coffee: DO Dipilto designation of origin
With the Denominacion de Origen, we want to protect the value that our coffee gives us.
Don "Milo" Emilio Gutierrez, President of the Asociacion de Cafetaleros de Nueva Segovia
Don "Milo" Emilio Gutierrez on his Finca Los Cipreses de Loma Fría, Nicaragua
Bursting with pride, Don "Milo" Emilio Gutierrez, owner of Finca Los Cipreses de Loma Fría and president of the Asociacion de Cafetaleros de Nueva Segovia and above all passionate agronomist, tells of the introduction of DO Dipilto. This origin certification "Denominacion de Origen de Café Dipilto" is the first of its kind in Nicaragua. It encompasses the areas of Dipilto, Macuelizo, and Mozonte in northern Nicaragua. "Since the introduction of Cup of Excellence in 2002, coffees from the Dipilto and Mozonte region have repeatedly landed among the top rankings," says Don Milo. "That's when we decided to give back to our farmers and our region by protecting the value that our coffee gives us."
DO Dipilto region, Nicaragua
A DO protects a product from a specific place in terms of its quality, its origin, and its ingredients. Comparable designations of origin or geographical indications in coffee are quality seals such as Café Marcala in Honduras, Genuino Antigua in Guatemala, Café de Tarrazú in Costa Rica.
For the approval of DO Dipilto, 17 requirement documents had to be created, including technical guidance for the post-harvest process, drying, and quality control. After four years of working through paperwork, in 2022 the farm Cafetos de Segovia was able to lay the cornerstone and sell the first certified DO Dipilto lot to England.
Coffee exports from Nicaragua
A coffee year is handled similarly to a school year and lasts in Nicaragua from October to September. The specification of the harvest year typically includes two years, for example, 2021/2022.
The most important port for exports is Corinto. In total, in the coffee year 2021/2022, over 4.5 million bags were exported, or in other words, almost 151 million kg of green coffee. Almost 9% of that was organically certified. Together, the USA and Europe account for 50% of purchases.
What are the biggest challenges?
In recent years, the temperature here in Dipilto around Easter has risen by about 10 degrees. Five years ago we had 25°C, today we're at 36°C or even 37°C.
Adan Mejía, Operations Manager Finca el Árbol and Finca Santa Rita, Nicaragua
The biggest problem, the seemingly insurmountable difficulty, is probably also climate in Nicaragua. Although the country still struggles with other evils, such as the enormous emigration of Nicas to the USA, which has an almost imperceptible impact on harvest workers. Many farms have far too few workers, which has a fatal impact on their overall harvest and sometimes means a loss of up to 40%. According to a 2016/2017 study by FUNIDES, almost 74% of farms are affected by diseases, pests, and fungi, which can destroy entire plots.
Colonialism and Nicaragua
Although the first coffee plants were planted in Nicaragua at the end of the 18th century, the stimulating drink newly discovered by Europeans only really became established in the middle of the 19th century, when worldwide demand increased markedly. The first large coffee farm was established in Managua, from where the business expanded to other regions. German and Italian immigrants were encouraged by the Nicaraguan government to buy land for coffee cultivation. Before long, the coffee business was firmly in the hands of white landowners, who had their workers labor for minimal wages and under the most difficult conditions.
Since 1987, Nicaragua has had 15 so-called Departamentos, or cantons or states, as well as 2 independent regions: the autonomous South Atlantic Coast Region and the autonomous North Atlantic Coast Region. After a 20-year conflict in which one party sought more control over the Miskito indigenous people and they in turn demanded greater autonomy, a peace agreement was finally signed in 1987, which paved the way for the creation of the two autonomous regions. This is intended to protect the rights and cultural identity of the indigenous population and the descendants of African slaves. The regions function with their own government and laws, which are intended to account for cultural and linguistic differences. Despite a certain independence, both regions are subject to the sovereignty of the country; the Nicaraguan government has the final say.
Facts & Figures
