Mahlkönig X54 – Espresso Grinder for Home

The Mahlkönig X54 espresso grinder is now on the market. As a coffee grinder, the X54 is designed for espresso and filter coffee and is intended to serve as an "all-rounder" for home coffee drinkers. At €460, the price is very competitive and opens up a new price segment for industry leader Mahlkönig.

We took an initial look at the Mahlkönig X54 when it came out. In the meantime, we've followed up with a comprehensive test as part of our major espresso grinder test series. Everything you should know about dead space, consistency, and particle distribution can be found in this report.

We've classified the Mahlkönig X54 in comparison group 4 and are comparing it with the Eureka Specialità, the Lelit PL72, and G-Iota. Further videos and the comparison video will be released in March 2022.

Buy Mahlkönig X54

The following specialty retailers stock the Mahlkönig X54 and we can recommend purchasing a machine from these businesses. They all offer the option to adjust the grinder's offset.

Germany: [Partner links]*: Stoll Espresso, Craft Coffee Gear, Bohnendealer

Austria: [Partner links]*: Bohnendealer

*We search for specialist partners we know provide good work and good service. We maintain close contact with the retailers. These are affiliate links. If you order through this link, it doesn't cost you more, but we receive a small commission that we invest in new test equipment. We continue to work on this and search for competent partners for you in the DACH region.

First Impression – the External Design of the X54

The Vario from Mahlkönig was previously the entry-level grinder from the Swiss-German coffee grinder manufacturer. I also had one at home what felt like a decade ago – a grinder felt like a foreign object in an otherwise high-quality range of coffee grinders. Mahlkönig simply didn't make grinders for beginners – or if they did, only with the brakes on – that was my conclusion back then when using the plastic contraption. When I think back to adjusting the grind setting on the two levers, I still get cramps today.

So I was all the more delighted by the announcement of the X54. A proper grinder – an "all-round home grinder" with a focus on espresso. That's quite demanding! The precision required in the espresso fine range of particles demands a lot from a grinder and rarely goes hand in hand with good grind adjustment down into the filter range.

The first impression of the X54 was quite impressive. The machine looks very high-quality, well-made. At around 5 kg, it's on the lighter side, but still feels solid. The exterior of the X54 resembles the E65 in miniature or the Anfim Practica, which, like Mahlkönig, are part of the Hemro Group.

View of the Mahlkönig X54.

The bean hopper consists of rather durable plastic. It can withstand the occasional drop. This is much better than with previous Mahlkönig grinders. The bean hopper attachment is also solid. No more tedious snapping and breaking like with the K30 or Peak. The grind adjustment feels just as premium as the display works well. It's a pleasure!

Grinder Consistency – Shot After Shot

For precise espresso adjustment, a reliable ground coffee amount is an important factor. We measured 10 shots each in the espresso range and filter coffee range. The grinder fluctuates by 0.3g +/- from the target grind setting. This isn't perfect, but completely acceptable for a home-use grinder. However, what was noticeable was that there were occasionally outlier shots. For example, instead of the target amount of 18 grams of coffee, only 16.5 grams were discharged, and then an increased amount was produced at the next grind. The Mahlkönig X54 unfortunately has a tendency to sometimes retain coffee powder beyond the usual dead space. This powder sticks to the rather large open area around the grinding discs and then releases itself during a later grinding.

New grinders initially produce more static charge until the grinding discs are slightly run in. The static charge was limited and not noticeably high. Once the grinder has done a hundred shots, the static of the particles will reduce on one hand, and the fluctuation will likely settle at 0.2 to 0.3 grams on the other.

Particle Distribution and Espresso Quality

Looking at the particle distribution is initially positive and matches many good espressos we've had from the Mahlkönig X54. In our T4 measurement, we set the espresso grinder again to an espresso with our Apas training espresso and a dose of 18 grams plus 45 grams espresso drink weight in 25 seconds.

The measurement shows a relatively low fine content of 19.6% compared to other grinders and simultaneously shows a relatively narrow main peak of 236 microns. Sensorially, this manifests itself in clean espresso shots, relatively low unpleasant bitterness, and good extraction behavior.

Unfortunately, the grinder didn't deliver the same distribution every time. The diagram above and the following one make this clear.

At T3 and T4, the grinder was set to the target espresso recipe. After T4, a ristretto (T5) and café crème (T6, see diagram above) were pulled. For T7, the grinder was re-adjusted to the same mark on the grind adjustment wheel to the best of our ability.

In all cases, the curves and measurements deviate from each other. This manifested itself in "jumping" extraction results and espresso quality. However, in all cases the results were in the good range, so the fluctuations don't weigh as heavily. Nevertheless, the large fluctuations were a negative surprise.

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Stepless or 35 Steps on the X54?

Mahlkönig has made a mistake in their own communication and some resellers have adopted it. The grinder doesn't have 35 steps but is stepless. However, it does have a scale that extends over 35 numbers or division steps.

When adjusting the grind size, there's no resistance or clicking to be felt. Conversely, this means the grinder can be set precisely without steps. We had no problem switching the grinder from espresso to filter and back again. In the espresso range, it then takes a few shots to nail the perfect espresso extraction spot on. That's our initial impression. We'll be examining this area of the grinder more closely. At first glance, the grinder seems significantly more flexible than many classic espresso grinders.

Grind adjustment on the X54.

We generally prefer to use a grinder only for espresso and a separate grinder for filter coffee. Whether the Mahlkönig X54 will change our opinion on this, we'll report to you after further tests.

Dead Space – the Forgotten Ground Coffee in the Grinder

Dead space refers to the space in a grinder that doesn't empty of ground coffee when grinding stops. Depending on the grinder geometry, grinding disc installation, and surrounding space, more or less ground coffee remains in the grinder. This ground coffee is pushed out of the grinder first when grinding more coffee beans during the next grinding. At the end of a grinding session, new powder remains again.

When checking dead space, we distinguish between areas in the grinder where the ground coffee doesn't get replaced every time and areas where the ground coffee is exchanged with every grinding. For example, ground coffee sticks to screw head openings over time, which then doesn't get replaced with every grind.

Plenty of room for old ground coffee.

The dead space of the X54 is relatively large. Ground coffee accumulates in the area of the carriers and in front of the flapper. With our new grinder in July 2021, we measured a dead space of 7.6 grams at an espresso grind. However, Mahlkönig has since made improvements and changed the durability and size of the flapper. And even though we initially didn't want to believe it: the new flapper reduces the dead space to 4.1 grams, which is significantly better.

The smaller flapper on the right in the image replaces the new flapper. The conversion can easily be done at home. Anyone who bought one of the first models should change the flapper.

Why is this adjustment so important? Dead space gets filled with old coffee. This is then used for preparing the next espresso. To put this in perspective with an espresso shot: a double espresso with 18g IN would consist of more than a third of "old" ground coffee. A single espresso shot of 9 or 10 grams would... well, it would be primarily made with old ground coffee.

Single Dosing and Ways to Combat Dead Space

Also because of the large dead space, the X54 is definitely not a grinder designed for single portions. Too much old coffee simply remains in the area around the grinding discs. It's a shame that Mahlkönig doesn't keep up with the times here and hasn't taken market impulses and worked on a smaller dead space. Niche shows the way and Eureka at least provides approaches with the "Blow Up System" to deal with dead space.

Dead space isn't a problem if the next espresso is pulled immediately. It becomes problematic when the espresso isn't until the next morning. So how do you deal with such a problem if the grinder otherwise performs well? A quick intermediate grind is the best approach.

Especially with the X54, 4 grind amount dosages can be programmed. Grind amount 1 can be set so that when using the grinder, the dead space is first emptied and refilled. Only then can, for example, the actual grind amount be obtained at grind level 2.

In our detailed espresso grinder test, we tested a grinder's single-dosing capability as follows: we ran the grinder empty. Then we removed the coffee beans from the bean hopper. We then weighed out 18 grams and poured them in. We then ground for 30 seconds. The test criterion was how reliably the grinder would completely expel the ground coffee during this time.

Here the aforementioned sticking problem appeared again. While the grinder typically only retained small amounts of 0.2 grams, some outliers of up to 1.2 grams ruined the result. 0.2 grams would be a good result from our perspective. 1.2 grams, however, is a poor result. In any case, weighing is necessary with the X54.

How Fast and Loud Does the Mahlkönig X54 Grinder Grind?

We achieved a grinding time of 16.5 seconds to dispense 18 grams of ground coffee for preparing our espresso from the APAS cooperative. The roast is on the darker side for our standards, so a medium roast in the overall picture. Lighter roasts will take longer, darker roasts will be faster due to the brittleness of the coffee.

In 10 seconds, the grinder reached a grinding amount of 13.7 grams. This makes it one of the slower espresso grinders in the test field.

Especially home espresso grinders are often not only loud but also sound "tense," stuttering, and "unhealthy." In comparison, the 81.8 decibel loud hum of the Mahlkönig X54 is rather a purr. The grinder is thus in the better mid-range of all test grinders.

Temperature and Bean Hopper

Among the positive results is the relatively low temperature of the grinding discs, or the low temperature transferred to the ground coffee. Over six grinds, the ground coffee showed a temperature of 31.1°C and only increased by 1.2°C. In this temperature range, we don't expect any negative sensory effects on the ground coffee.

The X54's bean hopper is very easily removable with a convenient slider. It closes well and the entire suspension feels very premium. However, 20.8 grams of remaining beans still stay below the slider. This is a medium value. Quick switching of coffee varieties is possible, but requires grinding out or turning the grinder upside down.

Conclusion and Your Experience

That's our initial test of the Mahlkönig X54. The grinder delivers a lot of good and makes a particular impression with its build quality. Usability is also good and overall the grinder feels very high-quality. The improved dead space is an important step. However, the espresso grinder has further difficulties in the grinding chamber. Too often the ground coffee isn't reliably expelled. Too often the amount varies and when you open it, you see that a lot of powder has stuck around the grinding discs. This dampens the good impression.

However, if you quickly weigh the ground amount and don't grind directly into the portafilter, you have a very good grinder in terms of value for money in the X54. The accessory market is secure and repairability is too. This is particularly lacking with cheaper grinders, such as Sage grinders.

With the X54, you can prepare very good espresso. That's the most important thing and despite some wishes for improvement, we can definitely recommend this grinder.

If you want to learn more about espresso preparation, take a look at our course program in our coffee schools in Switzerland and in Deutschland and if the journey to us is too far, then perhaps our online home barista course might be an option for you.

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What's your experience with Mahlkönig's new grinder? Do you share our impression or do you have a different opinion? What stands out positively for you and what bothers you? We're looking forward to your experiences.