The Varia VS3 performs excellent work in almost all test areas. This makes it a top recommendation in the espresso grinder entry-level segment. We tested the Varia VS3 extensively over many months in our coffee school and at home. We examined both the VS2 and VS3 versions.
Our goal as coffee grinder testers and roastery is to find the best equipment for your home so you can prepare our coffees optimally. With the Varia VS3, we're on a very exciting trail.
In the meantime, we've also tested the big sister of the Varia VS3, which was introduced to the market under the name VS6.
Small price, small size – good performance?
With a width of just 9 cm, a height of 31 cm and a depth of 14.8 cm (with plug 16.3 cm), the Varia VS3 is one of the narrowest grinders on the market. The black or white lacquered stainless steel body is elegant and looks particularly sophisticated next to black and white machines. Despite its low weight of only 3.7 kg, the grinder stands solidly on the table.
This aspect of the grinder is overall pleasantly surprising: the external quality exceeds expectations, given the low price of 370 € for an espresso grinder. At the time of testing, we saw the grinder for just 270 CHF in Switzerland, but this appears to be a special offer.
The grinder is equipped with a 48mm conical burr set, whose core has an inner diameter of 38mm. This burr set is made of high-nitrogen 420 stainless steel. Varia specifies a lifespan of 150 kg of coffee for the burr set. This is significantly less than what other manufacturers aim for. If we assume 80 espressos per kilogram, we arrive at 12,000 espresso extractions. After that, the burr set can also be easily replaced, especially since Varia offers additional cones with different performance. We're currently testing these and will add the results later.
But what does the small grinder deliver and how does the espresso taste? You'll find out in our test video and in this article once it's complete.
Espresso Quality
The Varia VS3 with the standard burr cone delivers solid espresso. The espresso tastes full-bodied and balanced. Nuances of more complex coffees are less pronounced than the round and overall delicious body. The espressos we pulled were round, sweet, and delicious.
We wouldn't call the Varia VS3 the best choice for more complex coffees. The Varia VS3 appears to us to be a very good grinder for medium roasts. It can achieve results faster here, despite the slow speed. At the same time, it's well-suited to unlock the flavor potential inherent in the coffee beans.
The particle distribution we measured is good. The main peak is at 259 microns in width, in the medium range, as is the fine portion at 24.6 percent.
Accessories and Included Contents
The included dosing cup doesn't fit well into the portafilter because it's too small. It's now possible to order a replacement cup that also fits 58mm portafilters. Unfortunately, this comes with extra costs and the included one doesn't do a good job.
The diameter wouldn't have to be a negative point if the cup could be placed on the portafilter like our KM cup. However, the small wings on the sides are missing for this.
Also included is a small spray bottle that can be used to spray water on the beans before grinding. A recently published study shows that this has a positive effect on coffee extraction. The included glass spray bottle initially worked well for us, but then gave up the ghost during video recording. That happens sometimes.
What stands out negatively: while the grinder may be compactly built, it can't do without its enormous power brick. It's as large as many laptop power supplies. If you can't tuck this away under your work surface in your kitchen, you'll quickly become annoyed. Someone from our community found a solution and had a 3D backpack for the grinder printed.
New Model of the Varia VS3
We tested versions two and three of the Varia VS3. The latest model, which we also discuss in the video, has a slightly more powerful motor and the feed area of the grinder is no longer coated. Some users had the problem with the Varia VS3 version two that the motor wasn't strong enough for lighter beans. This should no longer be the case with the new model.
The coating in the feed chute was elegant but caused significant static buildup. Remnants of coffee beans always stuck to the side. While this has improved, it's still the case.
Static is a problem with the Varia VS3, which is why using a water spray bottle is definitely recommended.
Speed or Slowness and Noise Level
The Varia VS3 is the slowest espresso grinder we've measured so far. It grinds just 6.7 grams of coffee in 10 seconds. In that time you could clean half your espresso machine. The slow speed takes some getting used to and especially changes your work rhythm if you're already used to working with other grinders. If you haven't gotten used to faster grinders, the slow grinding is probably not a problem.
Additionally, the grinder produces a penetrating and rather unpleasant humming sound when grinding. At 73 decibels, this is rather on the quiet side compared to other grinders, but it sounds uneven, wobbling, and penetrating. It's not an elegant sound of a powerful grinder, but rather sounds like a grinder on its last legs. This diminishes the feeling that you're working with a high-quality and elegant grinder.
The other operation of the grinder is greatly simplified. A single button starts and stops the grinding process.
Single Dosing Performance
The Varia VS3 is built as a single dosing grinder. To stand out as a good single dosing grinder, the grinder should meet two conditions:
- Little dead space remaining in the grinding chamber after grinding.
- Easy adjustability between one recipe and the next. It should also be possible to easily return to the original recipe.
The temporary dead space of the grinder is 1.1 grams of coffee. This is a good value, but we have higher standards for single dosing grinders. To meet this, single dosing grinders that don't empty on their own often have a bellows to empty the chamber with bellows pulses during grinding. If we use this, we arrive at a single dosing dead space of 0.05 grams. That's exemplary.
The bellows can also be removed and the magnetic lid placed directly on the grinder. However, it then sits so firmly that removal is difficult. Tip: Turn rather than pull, then it comes off more easily. However, using the bellows makes sense, which is why the lid scenario without bellows will rarely come into play.
On the second criterion, grind setting replicability, the Varia VS3 can't convince at least in particle analysis. We made these measurements at the Coffee Excellence Center of the ZHAW in Wädenswil. In test 4, we precisely set the espresso grind according to a standard recipe. Subsequently, the grinder was adjusted to ristretto and lungo and one drink of each type was pulled. For test 7, we then return to the previously set recipe, orienting ourselves only by the visual marking.
The resulting particle distribution curve showed a very large deviation from the comparison measurement in our test. In particular, the fine portion was significantly higher in the repeat measurement at 31.93% compared to the initial measurement (24.58%).
While the measurement data suggest that adjusting between recipes is less simple, we didn't experience this large deviation between pulls in practice. We interpret that especially the strong adjustment from espresso to ristretto (very fine) then to lungo (coarser) and back again is not easy for the grinder. This is a shortcoming that appears more frequently in cheaper grinders.
If only small adjustments are made in everyday use and similar coffees or roasts are used, then grind setting replicability proved less problematic in practice.
Working Process with the Varia VS3
With the Varia VS3, single dosing is pre-programmed and of course intended. And one thing is very clear: due to the very high static electricity of the grinder, working with a water spray bottle is not just recommended, but almost a must. Otherwise, too much static charge builds up and the coffee powder sticks to the dosing cup and can't be completely transferred to the portafilter.
Secondly, extractions are also much more irregular without the water sprayer. Very clearly: with water spraying, the Varia VS3 is an interesting grinder. For us, it's unusable without it!
Burr Cone: Upgrade or Unnecessary Luxury?
Varia offers four different burr cones for the VS3 – from the standard model to the elaborate coated Ultra version. In our tests, it becomes clear: a change can be worthwhile, but not for everyone.
- If you prefer classic espressos with lots of body, rather dark roasted and Italian style, you'll find a fitting upgrade with the Hypernova Titanium (M46C).
- For clearer, fruitier extractions, the Hypernova Ultra Set (M46D) is suitable – though with less body. Instead, soft and even clearer than the Supernova Titanium set.
- If you want to switch between espresso and filter coffee, you're best served with the Supernova Titanium (M46B). Medium body in espresso, plus plenty of clarity and the filter coffee performance is also impressive.
- The standard cone remains a solid all-rounder without clear weaknesses.
What matters is which coffee you prefer and whether you really want to engage with the sensory differences. A change is worthwhile if you're in the mood for precision, experimentation – and even better coffee.
Conclusion and Result Varia VS3
Despite all justified criticism of the Varia VS3, we shouldn't lose sight of the fact that the grinder is hard to beat in terms of value for money. Good espresso quality, little dead space, good consistency, and pragmatic operation in a truly elegant body with high-quality workmanship – the grinder delivers all this for 360 euros!
That makes the slow grinding and the difficulty switching between large grind differences manageable. Our testers were pleasantly surprised by the Varia VS3.
For anyone who wants to start preparing espresso, the Varia VS3 is an interesting espresso grinder. Benjamin Hohlmann
The Varia VS3 is far superior to the cheaper Sage Smart Grinder Pro, holds its own well against the DF64, and doesn't have to hide from a small Eureka Magnifico either. All in all, a good and interesting grinder!
