What does Ethiopian coffee taste like?

In our series on flavor profiles, we write about why coffee tastes the way it does. For the chapter on Ethiopia, we were able to win over Hannes Fendrich from Coffee Circle – an expert on Ethiopian coffee.

We have known Hannes and Coffee Circle for some time now and are repeatedly impressed by the work that Coffee Circle

Author: Hannes Fendrich

• Roaster and green coffee buyer at Coffee Circle Berlin
• German Brewers Cup Champion 2014 and 2016
• Follow him on Instagram @hannesmcmannes

Source: Coffee Circle

What does Ethiopian coffee taste like?

Ethiopia is not only the presumed birthplace of Arabica coffee. The country has a long coffee tradition and is one of the few coffee-producing countries where coffee consumption is firmly rooted in the culture. As a result, domestic demand for coffee is high and about half of the coffee grown remains in the country. Ethiopia is Africa's largest coffee-producing country and, according to ICO data, the world's fifth-largest coffee exporter.

As is often the case with coffee-specific topics, it is very difficult to make generalizing statements. The same applies to the taste of Ethiopian coffees.

In general terms, it can be said that Ethiopian coffees are known for floral and fruity flavor notes and tend to have a lighter body.

In specific individual cases, it depends on numerous factors such as the region within the country, local varieties, altitude, processing, and so on. So coffee from the same region in Ethiopia (as in all other growing countries) can taste quite different from one another.

Before we go into the different regions in Ethiopia, which can generally be assigned certain profiles, first a few Ethiopian specifics:

Processing: Washed vs. Unwashed

The two dominant processing methods are washed and unwashed (fully natural). The washed coffees from Limu, Sidamo, and Yirgacheffe taste noticeably more nuanced, finer, and have a lighter body than the unwashed coffees. The unwashed coffees are often very fruity and berry-like, with a wine-like acidity.

Even though washed coffees are often more relevant in the specialty coffee world, it is interesting to know that more than two-thirds (approximately 70 to 80%) of Ethiopian coffees are processed unwashed. The climatic conditions for pure sun-drying are optimal in Ethiopia, and in some coffee regions, water tends to be a scarce resource.

Processes like "honey processed" and experiments with certain fermentation methods are still very rare. The reason is that it has so far been very seldom possible for exporters to process micro lots. Micro lots have no tradition in the Ethiopian coffee system, and so most exporters do not have the right machines to process smaller coffee lots. Change is just beginning here, so this trend will likely increase in the future.

Source: Coffee Circle

Variety Diversity

The Ethiopian highlands in the western part of the country are the birthplace of Arabica coffee, which means that Ethiopia possesses the greatest genetic diversity of Arabica varieties among all coffee-cultivating countries.

To date, the JARC (Jimma Agriculture Research Center) in Ethiopia has isolated approximately 3,000 "coffee accessions" in their research facilities, though they have not yet genetically evaluated all of them. So there is an incredibly high genetic diversity in Ethiopia with up to 3,000 possible Arabica varieties.

Often, Ethiopian coffee varieties are grouped together as "heirloom varieties," which, strictly speaking, is not correct. A more accurate term is "local landraces," meaning the local landrace varieties of Arabica.

Hannes Fendrich

These traditional, local varieties differ by region, which certainly contributes to the different flavor profile in each region. The most accurate classification is provided by the JARC and the local landraces. Since most coffee is produced by smallholder farmers and they often cultivate different varieties, there are currently few opportunities to taste single-variety coffees. With the increase in privately-run farms that we are currently seeing, this should hopefully become more common in the future.

Hannes Fendrich and Martin Elwert (both Coffee Circle) visit partner producers in Ethiopia (Source: Coffee Circle)

Growing Conditions, Soil, Microclimate:

Of course, growing conditions play a major role. It has also proven true in Ethiopia that the very high-altitude growing regions in Sidamo, Yirgacheffe, and Limu produce the best qualities.

Fermentation and Processing

Washed coffee:

The coffee cherries in the south, namely Sidamo and Yirgacheffe, are predominantly washed in a traditional manner and fermented wet.

First, the pulp is removed mechanically and the bean with the mucilage is placed in water tanks for Fermentation fermentation. Depending on the wet mill, this occurs for a period of approximately 18 to 48 hours. Afterwards, the beans are removed from the water tank and guided with wooden rakes in the "washing channels" into another water tank.

This happens under the pressure exerted by the wooden rakes, and this removes a large part of the mucilage. The remaining mucilage residues dissolve in the final station, the water tank, where the parchment coffee is soaked overnight in fresh water once more.

It is known that this classical fermentation method has high water consumption, which is over 20 liters of water per kilogram of red cherries. This high water consumption is controversial from an ecological standpoint. Therefore, there is an increasing movement toward eco-pulpers, a machine that, after pulping the bean, also removes the mucilage from the parchment coffee mechanically through friction.

This parchment coffee then goes into water tanks overnight, where the remaining mucilage residues dissolve. The next day, the coffee is transferred to the drying beds. Technically speaking, no fermentation actually takes place in this eco-pulped coffee.

A major advantage is that this type of processing uses only 1 to 2 liters of water per kilogram of red cherries, making it significantly more ecological than traditional processing.

The following is an overview of the regions and their "typical" flavors, meaning a highly generalized view, divided into east, south, and west. Coffee is also cultivated in a few areas in the north of Ethiopia, but these are rather negligible due to small quantities. (Photo: Hannes Fendrich. An older overview of the different coffee regions in Ethiopia)

The Classic Regions: Harar, Sidamo, Yirgacheffe

The East: Harar

The unwashed coffees traditionally come from the Harar region in the east of the country, where a very dry climate prevails and the coffee cherries mostly dry right on the coffee plant. As a result, the unwashed coffee from Harar develops very chocolatey and blueberry notes and is often associated with the classic Mocha taste and a full body. Ethiopia was internationally known mainly for its Harar coffees in the 1950s, 1960s, and 1970s. This has changed somewhat in recent decades. Partly because the climate there has become increasingly dry and coffee yields in Harar have dropped significantly. Moreover, it is difficult to find clean unwashed coffees from Harar, which is why these coffees hardly appear in the specialty coffee scene. Not to mention that the price for good Harar qualities is comparatively high. Nevertheless, Harar coffee enjoys a large following, particularly in the Asian market.

The South: Sidamo, Yirgacheffe, and Guji

The area for Sidamo coffees extends over a wide territory and ranges south from Jawassa to the Bale Mountains. As wide as the area for Sidamo coffees is, so varied is the flavor profile.

Sidamo

The best qualities of washed coffees from Sidamo have a fruity and very distinctive flavor profile with a citric acidity. Among the best growing areas in Sidamo are the districts of Bensa, Chire, and Arbegona, where cultivation altitudes reach up to 2,300 meters. These coffees have a crisp acidity and taste reminiscent of ripe citrus fruits and black tea.

Yirgacheffe

Washed coffees from the southwestern neighboring region of Yirgacheffe, on the other hand, are somewhat more floral and have lower acidity. The outstanding qualities contain a complex aroma of Earl Grey tea or bergamot and ripe orange.

Guji

In the last two years, the Guji region has increasingly come into the focus of specialty roasters because coffees from Guji have grown very high and deliver an exceptional flavor profile. It reminds me of the crème de la crème of Yirgacheffe coffees: they are very floral and tea-like coffees with high sweetness from ripe stone fruits. There is also the theory that since Guji was recognized as an independent coffee region, the washing stations in Yirgacheffe have come under pressure, and many farmers from the high-altitude areas no longer deliver their ripe cherries to Yirgacheffe but instead to washing stations in Guji. This could explain why it has become more difficult to find top qualities in Yirgacheffe in recent years.

Unwashed qualities from Sidamo, Yirgacheffe, and Guji can be very fruity and complex. Typically, the acidity is somewhat "winey." The aroma, in the best cases, is reminiscent of tropical fruits such as mango, papaya, and ripe orange. Yirgacheffe coffees are somewhat more floral, and in the Sidamo and Guji coffees, the acidity is often somewhat more prominent. In terms of body, these coffees are fuller-mouthed and creamier than their washed counterparts, and the acidity is noticeably wine-like. Both in the washed and unwashed qualities, the best coffees remind me more of tea in character than of coffee.