The Comandante X25 Trailmaster isn't even on the market yet, and yet we managed to secure a unit at the World of Coffee in the summer in Milan. The X25 is designed for outdoor use, sturdy, water-repellent, and with its lid, even watertight. We have extensively tested the hand mill from German manufacturer Comandante both as a filter coffee mill on the go and as an espresso grinder.
X25 Trailmaster - Material and Appearance
Comandante is bringing the X25 Trailmaster to market as a lightweight, stable, and robust version of the classic Comandante—the C40 Nitro Blade. The Trailmaster is designed for outdoor use. While the C40 weighs 640 grams and is quite heavy, the Trailmaster comes in at just 420 grams.
For transparency: we carry the Comandante C40 MK4 Nitro Blade both in Switzerland and in our German shop. We expect to add the X25 Trailmaster to the shop as well once it becomes available.
The Trailmaster is made from a reinforced techno-polymer called QTP. This is a very stable form of plastic. It feels high-quality, has considerable weight, and is relatively scratch-resistant.
The entire Comandante has a polygonal structure, which gives the surface a 3D effect similar to what you see on some Portuguese tiles. You can distinctly feel the structure, and it gives the Comandante a certain texture and grip. The handle is also supported by the relatively smaller circumference of the X25 compared to the C40. People with smaller hands in particular will find it easier to grip.
The mill has a diameter of 5 cm, is 16.5 cm tall, and has a circumference of 16 cm. The Comandante lettering also provides grip and appears almost sharp in contrast to the otherwise pleasant tactile feel of the mill.
Visually, the sand-colored polygon pattern is reminiscent of desert camouflage and has a somewhat military appearance. At the same time, it's also artistically modern. Which aspect dominates is probably in the eye of the beholder.
The Outdoor Comandante X25 Trailmaster
We have extensively tested the X25 Trailmaster outdoors. It was a companion on many tours throughout the summer and early fall. This is also the mill's primary use case and its greatest strength: grinding fresh coffee on the go without the risk of the mill breaking. This is what sets the Comandante X25 apart from the C40 MK4.
The coffee and grinding results, including particle distribution for espresso, are virtually identical between the C40 and X25. Our lab measurements indicate this. Both mills use virtually the same Nitro-Blade conical burr set.
But the 200-gram weight difference, the size, and the more robust construction—that simply makes using the X25 on the go much more enjoyable, especially since it's also watertight when the lid is attached.
Brilliant as a Filter Coffee Grinder—Espresso Best with an Upgrade
Filter coffee and alternative brewing methods are the X25's strength. In the grind setting range between 22 and 28 clicks, we brewed many excellent filter coffees. To count the clicks, you first close the mill completely and then gradually open it from that point.
With each click, the grinding cone moves further out, making the mill coarser. In the filter coffee range, the grind adjustment per click is ideal. In the espresso range, the steps are too large. For example, grind setting 9 might result in an extraction of 20 seconds, while grind setting 8 already produces a pour time of 32 seconds. An additional click in between would be desirable here. This can be achieved through an upgrade to the mill with the Redclix system, but it's an additional cost.
Alternatively, resistance can be increased by adjusting the coffee amount. The need to work with amount adjustments in this way is one of the weaknesses of this hand mill compared to some electric espresso grinders. This is because adjusting the coffee amount requires significantly more understanding of brewing relationships than adjusting the grind setting.
On the other hand, the Comandante's build quality, durability, and grinding and particle distribution results are virtually superior to all electric mills in the Comandante's price range.
This is already a strong argument for a hand mill in this price range, especially since the Comandante X25 Trailmaster has 0 grams of retention, is easy to clean, and thus offers many arguments in its favor compared to electric mills.
Conclusion on the Comandante X25 Trailmaster
For filter coffee—whether outdoors, while traveling, or at home—the Comandante X25 Trailmaster is an excellent hand mill that doesn't need to hide from any electric grinder.
For espresso, an upgrade with Redclix adjustment makes sense so that the right grind setting can be chosen without adjusting the amount. The taste results are very good when you hit the right grind setting. This is partly due to the narrow and therefore good particle distribution in the main peak of the Comandante X25 Trailmaster.
Update January 19, 2023: We were able to snag a few of the limited quantities of Comandante X25 Trailmaster available for our German shop. You can find them here while supplies last.
Buy Comandante X25 Trailmaster
The following specialty retailers* carry the Comandante X25 Trailmaster and we can recommend purchasing from these businesses.
Switzerland: [Partner links] Adrianos
* We search for specialty partners we know do good work and provide good service. We maintain close contact with these retailers. These are affiliate links. If you order through this link, it won't cost you more, but we receive a small commission that we reinvest in new testing equipment.
