The Comandante X25 Trailmaster isn't even on the market yet, but we managed to secure a unit at the World of Coffee last summer in Milan. The X25 is designed for outdoor use, stable, water-resistant, and even watertight with the lid. We tested the hand mill from German manufacturer Comandante extensively as a filter coffee mill on the go as well as an espresso mill.
X25 Trailmaster - Material and Appearance
With the X25 Trailmaster, Comandante is bringing a lightweight, stable, and robust version of the classic Comandante - the C40 Nitro Blade - to market. The Trailmaster is designed for outdoor use. While the C40 weighs 640 grams, making it quite hefty, the Trailmaster comes in at just 420 grams.
For transparency: we stock the Comandante C40 MK4 Nitro Blade both in Switzerland and in our German shop. We will likely add the X25 Trailmaster to the shop as well once it becomes available.
The Trailmaster is made from a reinforced technopolymer called QTP. This is a very stable form of plastic. It feels high-quality, has considerable weight, and is relatively scratch-resistant.
The entire Comandante has a polygonal structure, which gives the surface a 3D appearance similar to what you see on some Portuguese tiles. You can feel the structure clearly, and it gives the Comandante a certain texture and grip. The grip is also supported by the relatively smaller circumference of the X25 compared to the C40. Those with smaller hands in particular will find it easier to grip.
The mill has a diameter of 5 cm, is 16.5 cm tall, and has a circumference of 16 cm. The Comandante lettering also provides grip and appears almost sharp in contrast to the otherwise pleasant texture of the mill.
Visually, the sand-colored polygon pattern reminds you of desert camouflage and has a somewhat military appearance. At the same time, it's also artistically modern. Which aspect dominates probably depends on the eye of the beholder.
The Outdoor Comandante X25 Trailmaster
We tested the X25 Trailmaster extensively outdoors. It was a companion on many tours over the summer and early fall. That's also the primary use case for the mill and its strength: grinding fresh coffee on the go without risk of the mill breaking. This is what sets the Comandante X25 apart from the C40 MK4.
The coffee and grinding results, including particle distribution for espresso, are nearly identical between the C40 and X25. Our lab measurements indicate this. Both mills also use virtually the same Nitro-Blade conical burr set.
But the 200-gram weight difference, the size, and the more robust design simply make the X25 much more enjoyable to use on the go - especially since it's also watertight when the lid is attached.
Brilliant as a Filter Coffee Mill - Espresso Best with Upgrade
Filter coffee and alternative brewing methods are the X25's strength. In the grind setting range between 22 and 28 clicks, we brewed many excellent filter coffees. To be able to count the clicks, the mill is first closed completely and then opened from there.
With each click, the grinding cone moves further out and the mill gets coarser. In the filter coffee range, the grind adjustment achieved per click is ideal. In the espresso range, the jumps are too large. For example, grind setting 9 can mean an extraction of 20 seconds, and grind setting 8 already means a flow time of 32 seconds. Another click in between would be desirable. This can be achieved through a mill upgrade with the Redclix system, but it's an additional cost.
Alternatively, resistance can be increased by adjusting the coffee amount. The need to work with amount adjustments like this is one of the weaknesses of this hand mill compared to some electric espresso mills. Because adjusting the coffee amount requires significantly more understanding of brewing relationships than adjusting the grind setting.
On the other hand, the Comandante's manufacturing quality, durability, and grinding and particle distribution results are virtually superior to all electric mills in the Comandante price range.
That's already a strong argument for a hand mill in this price range, especially since the Comandante X25 Trailmaster has zero retention, is easy to clean, and thus combines many advantages compared to electric mills.
Conclusion on the Comandante X25 Trailmaster
For filter coffee, whether outdoors, while traveling, or stationary, the Comandante X25 Trailmaster is an excellent hand mill that doesn't have to hide from any electric mill.
For espresso, an upgrade with Redclix adjustment is worthwhile so you can select the right grind setting without adjusting the amount. The flavor results are very good when you hit the right grind setting. This is partly due to the narrow and thus good particle distribution in the main peak of the Comandante X25 Trailmaster.
Update January 19, 2023: We were able to snag some of the limited Comandante X25 Trailmaster units for our German shop. You can find them here while supplies last.
